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Local’s Guide to Lyon: don’t feel like a foreigner in France’s capital of gastronomy

Located at the junction of the Rhône and Saône rivers in southeastern France, Lyon is one of the most remarkable cities not only in France but also in all of Europe. With its UNESCO-listed historic districts, its cuisine regarded as the heart of French gastronomy, and its relaxed lifestyle, Lyon easily enchants every visitor.

Old Town – Vieux Lyon

The best place to start exploring Lyon is Vieux Lyon, where you can fully experience the city’s Renaissance spirit. This district is the second-largest Renaissance neighborhood in Europe, with its cobblestone alleys, historic houses, and mysterious passageways that make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time.

Must-Sees:

  • Traboules: These secret passageways, once used by silk workers during the Renaissance, are one of the city’s iconic features. Exploring the ones open to the public offers a fascinating glimpse into Lyon’s past.
  • Saint Jean Cathedral: A blend of Gothic and Romanesque architecture, this cathedral stands out with its stunning stained-glass windows and Lyon’s famous astronomical clock.
  • St. Paul and St. George Churches: Smaller but equally charming, these churches add to the mystical atmosphere of Vieux Lyon.

Bellecour and Terreaux Squares

The city’s most famous and lively squares — Place Bellecour and Place des Terreaux — form the heart of Lyon’s social life, offering something for everyone.

Place Bellecour

One of the largest pedestrian squares in Europe, Bellecour is the city’s main meeting point.

Things to Do:

  • Stroll through the square and enjoy a coffee break at one of the nearby cafés. For shopping, visit Rue de la République and Rue Auguste Comte, where you’ll find both international brands and local boutiques.
  • Place Jacobins & Rue Mercière: The iconic Jacobins fountain is a true Lyon symbol. A few steps away, Rue Mercière is lined with restaurants serving classic French cuisine — perfect for a memorable meal. My personal favorites here include Leon Fish Brasserie (world-famous seafood), Casa Soho (great cocktails and tapas), and Kaffee Berlin (burgers and snacks in a cozy atmosphere).
  • Place Carnot – Victor Hugo: Just a short walk from Bellecour, this square hosts Christmas markets in winter. Don’t miss grabbing cookies, éclairs, or croissants from Eric Kayser nearby.

Place des Terreaux

  • Bartholdi Fountain: This 19th-century masterpiece was created by Frédéric Bartholdi, the sculptor of the Statue of Liberty. The fountain represents France and its four main rivers.
  • Museum of Fine Arts: Known as the largest museum in France after the Louvre, it’s an absolute must-see with collections ranging from antiquity to modern art. The garden is also beautiful.
  • Bookshop: Le Bal des Ardents, Lyon’s oldest bookstore, is located here — perfect for a quiet coffee break surrounded by books.
  • Tip: The square is especially beautiful when illuminated at night. During the Festival of Lights in December, it looks straight out of a fairytale.
  • Also nearby is C’est 2 Euros, a local chain where everything costs just €2 — great for budget finds!

Croix-Rousse

  • Once the center of Lyon’s silk industry in the 19th century, Croix-Rousse is famous for its narrow streets and tall “canut” buildings, which once housed silk looms.
  • Maison des Canuts: Visit this museum to learn about silk weaving and watch live demonstrations.
  • Traboules: Like in Vieux Lyon, Croix-Rousse is full of hidden passageways.
  • Street Art: The area is known for its murals, especially the Fresque des Canuts, a massive painting depicting silk workers and local history — truly impressive.

Nature and Views

Parc de la Tête d’Or

This massive central park is Lyon’s green heart — much like Central Park in New York.

  • Botanical Garden: Home to rare plants — a paradise for nature lovers.
  • Lake: You can stroll around or rent a boat.
  • Zoo: There’s even a free zoo inside the park!

Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière

Perched atop Lyon’s highest hill, this basilica is one of the city’s most iconic landmarks, offering spectacular architecture and panoramic views.

  • Viewpoint: Watch the sunset from here — the view is unforgettable.
  • Access: Take the funicular to the top for an easy ride.

Jardin de Curiosité

A small but lovely garden near the basilica offering a different angle of Lyon’s skyline.

Lyon

Museums

  • Museum of Fine Arts: A must for art lovers — if you visit only one museum, make it this one.
  • Musée des Confluences: With its futuristic architecture and interactive exhibits, it’s great for families.
  • Lumière Museum: Dedicated to the Lumière brothers, inventors of cinema — the perfect spot for film enthusiasts.
  • Cinema and Miniature Museum: Showcasing movie props and miniature art — a real gem for cinephiles.
  • Puppet Museum: Lyon is the birthplace of the Guignol puppet — learn all about it here.

Winter & Skiing in the French Alps

If you visit Lyon in winter, take a short trip (2–3 hours) to the French Alps for skiing. Popular resorts include Valmorel, Chamonix, Les 3 Vallées, Courchevel, and Megève.

Festival of Lights – Fête des Lumières

Held every December, this festival is Lyon’s most magical event. The entire city glows with creative light projections, turning Lyon into a living art gallery. Combined with Christmas markets, it feels absolutely dreamlike.

Nearby Cities & Day Trips

  • Annecy: A picturesque lake town at the foot of the Alps (1 hour away).
  • Geneva: Switzerland’s cosmopolitan city, only 2.5 hours away.
  • Turin: For a touch of Italy, this city is about 4 hours away.

Lyon’s Gastronomic Experience

Known as France’s culinary capital, Lyon is to France what Gaziantep is to Turkey — a city where food is an art form.

Traditional Lyon Restaurants – Bouchons Lyonnais

These family-run eateries are the best way to experience Lyon’s cuisine, offering hearty meat dishes, offal recipes, and homemade desserts unique to the city.

Recommended bouchons:

  • Chez Maman: Burgers, Boeuf Bourguignon with wine sauce, Lyonnaise salad
  • Le Petit Bouchon de la Place: Cervelle de Canuts, tartine Lyonnaise
  • Chez Grande-Mère: Coq au vin (chicken in wine sauce)
  • Brasserie Georges: Onion soup, foie gras, Norwegian omelette

Bouillon Restaurants

Affordable, traditional brasseries — like the ones in Paris — also exist in Lyon.

Try:

  • Bouillon Croix-Rousse
  • Bouillon Maurice

Les Halles de Paul Bocuse

Located in the Part-Dieu district, this covered market is a gourmet paradise — filled with local seafood, artisan products, and fine delicacies. Named after Lyon’s legendary Michelin-starred chef Paul Bocuse, it’s a must-visit spot.

Sweets and Breakfast

  • Pralines: Pink sugar-coated almonds — a true Lyon symbol. Get them from Voisin.
  • Coussin de Lyon: Marzipan-filled sweets — perfect as gifts (also available at Voisin).
  • Bakeries: Don’t miss Boulangerie du Palais in Vieux Lyon, Eric Kayser at Place Carnot, and Copains, the Parisian organic and gluten-free bakery now in Lyon. Also, Pierre Hermé macarons can be found at Part-Dieu train station.

Places to Visit & Eat

  • By the River: Enjoy drinks or dinner on the peniche (boat cafés).
  • Café des Négociants: A historic brasserie with refined cuisine.
  • InterContinental Hotel Dôme Bar: Located inside a converted hospital with a stunning glass dome — perfect for cocktails.
  • Tapas: Try Odessa Comptoir or La Movida.
  • Brunch: Pimprenelle, Sampa (Brazilian cuisine), or Bikube.
  • Nightlife: La Maison transforms into a nightclub after dinner (around 11 p.m.).
  • Cocktails: Big White Bar and Pineapple Room.
  • Italian: Casa Nobile, Carmelo, Nano Trattoria, Terramia Confluence.
  • Antique Market: Puces du Canal — Lyon’s huge flea market.
  • Aquarium & Mini World: Great fun for kids!

Where to Stay

Having visited Lyon every year for work since 2016 — and living here since 2023 — I’ve tried many hotels. I recommend Perrache, Part-Dieu, Bellecour, Terreaux, Vieux Lyon, and Monplaisir — all are well connected by metro and tram.

Top Hotel Picks:

  • Radisson Blu Hotel
  • InterContinental Hotel
  • Cour des Loges Radisson
  • Grand Hôtel des Terreaux
  • Hotel Carlton
  • Boutique Hôtel Silky
  • Ibis Confluence / Part-Dieu
  • Mama Shelter
  • Novotel

Final Thoughts

With its rich history, world-class cuisine, and unique atmosphere, Lyon will capture your heart.
With this guide, you’re ready to explore the city like a true local — because Merve from Lyon has thought of everything for you J

For personalized, professional travel experiences in Lyon and across France, feel free to reach out anytime

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